|
|
High-maintenance tribute to old-time Cuban food
By Lauren McCutcheon
High-maintenance tribute to old-time Cuban soul food.
It's white and red and dark all over. Three low-lit floors offer white, suede-soft seats, a glowing, red glass bar and vintage-looking wall projections of cigar-smoking musicians.
The Food
Island comfort foods star amid craftier combinations on Chef Douglas Rodriguez's menu. Start with slightly smoky green or marlin salads, or tender grilled octopus over tangy marinated octopus, tomato and olives. Fried oysters arrive overburdened with spinach; crab empanadas offer fresh interiors, but their pastry shell can be too crispy. Entree successes include tender rack of lamb surrounded with mint leaves, halibut coated in bits of fried plantain, and tuna loin, heavy in garlic and sweetened with rum. Avoid the duck, which can be a bit chewy. For dessert, cocoa-dusted, almond cake in the shape of a cigar (complete with a baked book of matches) is the way to go.
-
emily
,
posted 07/27/04
|